Big Enough To Drive A Truck Through! (Maybe)

Special Feature presented by James Baughn on February 26, 2002

"There's nothing to do in Cape Girardeau!" is a common exclamation around here. No amount of River Campuses, Wal-Mart Supercenters, or super-hyper-mega-multiplex movie theaters will change the fact that Cape Girardeau doesn't hold a candle to St. Louis or other big cities when it comes to fighting boredom.

But that doesn't mean this area is devoid of recreational opportunities. You just have to know where to look for them. And many of most scenic locations in Southeast Missouri involve turning off the paved road, such as Tunnel Bluff in Ripley County, a natural area that includes an arch, a cave, and a view of Current River all in one spot.

When to visit

It might seem a little odd to run travel stories during winter. In Missouri, though, winter is the best time to venture into the great outdoors. This is the only time of year without ticks, without chiggers, without snakes, without black bears, and, most importantly, without heat indices hovering around 200 degrees. Because of the variability of the weather around here, even the harshest winter will feature at least some weekends with sunny skies and temperatures in the 60s. Don't sit at home watching reruns of reruns on TV when the weather is nice -- you'll have plenty of time for that in July when your air conditioner is going full blast.

After following the steep and tricky trail to the bottom, you wonder if maybe this is a wild goose chase... But it's not.

The hike to Tunnel Bluff is less than a third of a mile long, but the last portion involves a steep descent that shouldn't be attempted when the temperature is above 80 degrees... unless you enjoy pain. Visiting this scenic wonder in summer is not recommended. So take advantage of the cooler, drier air during winter and early spring before heart-attack weather arrives in June.

What's there

It might be big enough for a compact car, but not for a Peterbilt.

Tunnel Bluff is a natural arch perched on a bluff overlooking Current River from the east. It's not actually a tunnel, but since Cape Girardeau isn't exactly on a cape, I think we can easily overlook this oxymoron. The book "Geological Wonders and Curiosities of Missouri" quotes one source that this feature is "large enough to drive a truck through", but that seems like a stretch. For one thing, if a truck did fit through the opening, it would immediately plunge over the bluff into Current River.

The problem with being tall is that it's hard to explore these cave portals that are only about four feet high.

The arch is probably a remnant of a collapsed cave system. Indeed, a portion of the cave is still intact in the hill opposite from the arch. Lacking a flashlight (and clothing suitable for crawling through mud), I wasn't able to tell how far back the cave reaches. It might end abruptly, but then again it might open up to the other side of the hill (in which case this cave would be the namesake of Tunnel Bluff after all).

Getting there

Tunnel Bluff is a State Natural Area. However, don't let that fact fool you into thinking that it's conveniently listed on your state map. It's not. Even the 70 page DeLorme Missouri Atlas and Gazetteer doesn't show it. And don't expect to see any large road signs on the highway. For one thing, it's not on a highway. You'll need to Turn Off The Paved Road.

To get there, take US Highway 60 west from Poplar Bluff and then take Highway 21 south to the big city of Grandin. In "downtown" Grandin, turn right on to Route O and follow it for several miles until you reach a stop sign. Yes, there's a stop sign out here in the middle of nowhere. Turn right. Careful, this a county road, so you can expect the pavement to abruptly end without warning. Follow this road (unmarked Carter County Road O-5) for a few miles westward.

Keep your eyes peeled for a pullout on the right with a tiny "Tunnel Bluff Natural Area" sign. The sign will say "AREA CLOSED" in bold letters, but if you read the fine print this only applies to motorized vehicles, not foot travel (these signs, erected by the National Forest, are apparently designed to scare off idiots, leaving these scenic wonders unspoiled for the rest of us).

The trail follows a fairly level course for about a third of a mile before reaching a sheer dropoff leading into the hollow containing Tunnel Bluff. It's an easy hike except for the last few hundred feet, but even that isn't too bad.

Welcome to the Bible Belt.

Only in Missouri would somebody take the time to carve an image of the cross into a tree along the trail. By the way, vandalizing precious natural resources on National Forest property is a criminal offense punishable by 215 years in prison and a $5.4 billion dollar fine.

The trail to Tunnel Bluff features a panoramic view of Current River.

It might also be possible to reach this area from the other direction by taking Forest Road 3142 east from Route C (between US 60 and US 160). This road leads to Hawes Recreation Area, a boat landing on the west bank of Current River opposite Tunnel Bluff. The arch might be visible from this side of the river, although I doubt anybody would want to swim across the river and then climb up a steep cliff just to avoid a 1/3 mile hike.

Other places to visit near here

Carter, Ripley, and Oregon Counties feature quite a few scenic places reachable only by turning off the paved road. Check back later for future stories about Cupola Pond, Tupelo Gum Pond, Red Maple Pond, Cowards Hollow, Eleven Point Narrows, and other natural areas in this part of Southeast Missouri not listed in your typical tourist brochure.